La Desirade

As you approach La Désirade, it is etched starkly on the horizon: a 700-foot high slab of rock rising from the ocean, five miles long by one and a half miles wide. Much of that width is the mountain top plateau. The northern side is steep and inhospitable; the southern side has the only habitable land and is protected for much of the way by a fringing reef. Seen by Columbus’ crew after a painful two-month crossing on his second voyage, it seemed like heaven on earth; they gave it the name Désirade.

This small island sees relatively little cruising traffic, which gives it a relaxed, unhurried character. The population is around 1,500 people, and fishing remains central to the local economy. You can rent cars, scooters, or bikes, and explore all the roads, including one that goes right along the mountain ridge. Up there, walking down little side trails will bring you to spectacular views. Swimming and beach time are excellent in several places behind the barrier reef. There are good hikes; the tourist office on the ferry quay can give you a map.

The island provides all the electricity it needs from about 50 wind turbines perched on the mountaintop. They sell surplus to Guadeloupe. These wind turbines are first-generation and smaller than the newer ones on Guadeloupe and Marie-Galante.

A large cactus garden, the Jardin Botanique du Désert, is near the college and worth visiting.