Marie Galante
By the time Columbus sailed into Marie-Galante, he had run out of saints, so he named this island after one of his boats. From afar, Marie-Galante looks as flat as a pancake, but when you get close, you realize that, as pancakes go, it is quite substantial; over 300 feet in elevation in many places and over 600 feet at its highest point. The soil contains a high proportion of clay, so the land retains rainwater and is thickly wooded and green, with many palm trees along the coast. It is a relaxed, unhurried island; an ideal place to slow down, eat good Créole meals (Marie-Galante’s Créole cooking is some of the best in the French Antilles), take quiet walks, and have a long stretch of beach largely to yourself.
Marie-Galante has a population of about 10,000 and is great for touring by bike, car, or scooter. It is an island of dense dry forests, many fruit trees, and large areas of sugarcane. The traffic is light, so you do not fear for your life on a scooter. These have the advantage of ambling along the tiny farm roads that would challenge a car.
Some 50 high-tech wind turbines on the east coast generate electricity for Marie-Galante. At one time, around 600 windmills ground sugarcane across the island, and it was once one of the most productive sugar islands in the Lesser Antilles, with an economy built on the labor of enslaved people. Seventy-three old windmills survive in various states of repair. None are commercially used, though Le Moulin de Bezard has been fully restored to working order and is one of the few places in the islands to see an old-fashioned working windmill.
Look out for an exceptional beach at Capesterre, and a couple more to its south. A barrier reef lies quite close to shore along these beaches, creating beautiful, turquoise, shallow lagoons with good snorkeling just a short swim away. If this makes you hungry, Capesterre has several restaurants for your midday meal.
In the northeast of the island, you can visit Gueule Grand Gouffre, a round sinkhole with a rim about 200 feet high, smooth sides, and an arch at the bottom open to the sea. There are majestic cliffs around the east coast and a short walk in the area of Caye Plate will show you the best.
From a yachting perspective, the beach at Anse Canot and those to the south of St. Louis will be major attractions. Hikers will be pleased to know that hiking trails have been laid out all over the island. The tourist office sells a useful trail booklet with maps, and staff can usually assist even if your French is limited.
