Anguilla
Anguilla is a low island surrounded by soft, powdery, white sand beaches and banks of coral. For the most part it has a wonderful sense of peace and Anguillans are known for their strong community ties and welcoming attitude toward visitors. The population of 15,000 relies on tourism as the major industry, and the American University of Anguilla School of Medicine adds a rotating community of international students to the island’s population.
The tourist boom has brought with it a rash of building, with styles varying from rectangular concrete boxes to the elaborately grandiose in many flavors. Here and there, but getting rarer, you come across a traditional old Anguillan house; they stand out as very pleasing to the eye in their simplicity and elegance.
The two main visitor activities in Anguilla are going to the beach and dining out. As a consequence, Anguilla has so many excellent restaurants that mentioning them all would take an entire book; I have stuck to those close to the anchorages.
In 1967, Britain grouped Anguilla with St. Kitts and Nevis into an autonomous state, a decision made without meaningful Anguillan input that disregarded both the geographic separation of the islands and the distinct identity of their people. Anguillans were dead set against this arrangement and wanted to remain with England. They rebelled against the rule of St. Kitts’ Premiere Bradshaw who told them he “would show them who was boss” and threatened to “turn Anguilla into a desert.”
A remarkable and largely non-lethal resistance followed. The Anguillan rebels would open fire on the police station – manned from St. Kitts – at all hours of the night or day until the police were quite unnerved. A large armed crowd then gave the police an ultimatum to leave the island and they blocked the runway to stop reinforcements from arriving.
The Anguillans, fearing an armed invasion from St. Kitts, decided to take the offensive and invade St. Kitts themselves. A small boatload of men went there, aided by two American mercenaries. The invasion was a complete fiasco. A big hole got blown in the ground near the defense force headquarters and there was a shoot-out at a police station. There were no casualties. However, after that no one in St. Kitts really wanted to mess with the Anguillans.
Several Americans thought up fancy schemes to help the Anguillans finance their island, and Britain, citing unfounded fears, including a widely mocked claim that organized crime had taken over the island, sent in troops in 1969. They were met not by the insurrection they expected but by goats and curious children; an episode that became emblematic of how thoroughly Anguillans had outmaneuvered the colonial bureaucracy. After the embarrassment died down, Anguilla separated from the St. Kitts-Nevis state and became a British Overseas Territory, which remains in place today.
Road Bay, the main anchorage in Anguilla, is a charming village set on a lovely beach. The sail to and from St. Martin is usually a pleasant haul over turquoise water. From Road Bay you can visit other anchorages along Anguilla’s south and north coasts, as well as making day stops offshore at Sandy Island, Dog Island, and Prickly Pear Cays. There are fees involved.
You must clear into Anguilla and the place to do this is Road Bay. From Road Bay you can get a cruising permit to explore other anchorages, some of which are in the marine park. If you use a yacht agent and arrange it in advance, the agent can check you in from any anchorage.
Of note, when visiting Anguilla, is that while Government offices usually list prices in EC, almost everywhere else, especially restaurants, list prices in US.
The Anguilla Sailing Association organizes the Anguilla Youth Sailing Club, which teaches local kids to sail in a fleet of dinghies, some of which you are likely to see out on the water. The sailing program is open to everyone, with scholarships for those who cannot afford it. In this endeavor, they have had support from local businesses all over Anguilla, including those in Sandy Ground.
Local boat builder David Carty is Chairman of The Anguilla Boat Racing Association, which hosts a series of races for local boats throughout the year, often on holidays or part of local festivals. Check out their Facebook page for dates and locations.
