Petite Martinique

Getting tired of all the tourists? Petite Martinique (PM), the northernmost outpost of Grenada, is small and authentic. I love to overnight here, take a long walk, and have a meal ashore. You can take on water and fuel (though the dock is severely damaged, so use caution) and it is a good place to look for bargains on beer, liquor, and wine. The inhabitants live by boatbuilding and seafaring (and, in days of old, smuggling). Fishing has always been important and, currently, long-line tuna fishing is very successful. Many vessels lie at anchor and the docks are far busier than the roads. The fancy new houses are recent, but some of the older wooden pitched-roof houses are photogenic, especially at the eastern end of the island. PM is a lot larger than it looks. If you turn right from the dock the road winds round the south side of the island. It is possible to walk all the way around, but the eastern part is a thorny scramble with no real trail. You will find the people here friendly and welcoming, and the island has several shops and a few restaurants. For the adventurous explorer and snorkeler, Fota and Petite Dominique are within range of a seaworthy dinghy.

Replenish your wine, beer, and liquor lockers, and top up on groceries at E & B supermarket or Matthew’s Shopping Center at unbeatable prices. Odinga’s Millennium Connection is in Matthews and has stacks of clothes, shoes, jewelry, and more. Adjoining is a gift shop with handicrafts.

For fresh vegetables, take the short, scenic walk to the aquaponics farm at the very northern end of Main Street, in Madame Pierre.

Palm Beach [VHF: 16, (473) 443-9103, $$] is a pleasant family restaurant managed by Emmanuel. The setting is perfect: a pretty garden shaded by palms, right on the beach. They serve seafood from the local fishing fleet, with chicken or pork for those who don’t like seafood. The food is first-rate and the lobster dishes highly recommended, but if you prefer fish as your main, try the lobster bisque as a starter if it is on the menu. Prices are affordable. Palm Beach has two customer moorings and free WiFi. They are usually happy to come to PSV and pick you up from your yacht in their speedboat for lunch or dinner. If you want time to hike, shop, or wander around before your meal you can arrange this with Emmanuel (not always in service). It is a great way to add PM to your PSV visit. There is no charge for this service, but if you are only one or two people, a gas contribution is greatly appreciated. 

Close by, Melodies [VHF: 16, “Tasha P Radio”] is a guesthouse, built on the beach. They have a bar and restaurant, but cook meals to advance order only.

Eclipse hosts most of PM’s nightlife. They stay open until 2400 most nights, food is almost always available, and they sometimes host karaoke. If you don’t see anyone out front, check in the kitchen around back.

There are several other small supermarkets (minimarkets would be a better description), rum shops, and snack shops dotted around the island, along the west-running road. Angel’s and M&M are local supermarkets. GG’s, Jig’s, and Benje’s are rum shops and sometimes restaurants.

For an informative walking tour of the island, contact Akeisha of Bamboo Adventure Tours. She started as a tour guide in Grenada, but relocated to PM years ago with her husband, a local fisherman. She will take you to the top of the piton, identify birds and medicinal plants, show you interesting volcanic rock formations, and share the island’s unique folklore, history, and traditions. If you have questions about the island, she is the one to contact.

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