Guadeloupe

Guadeloupe was named Karukera (‘Island of Pretty Waters’) by the Kalinago, its Indigenous inhabitants. It is partly agricultural, with an emphasis on sugar cane. Guadeloupe’s sugar economy was built on the labor of enslaved people; the island has a significant history of resistance to slavery, including the 1802 uprising at Matouba. Today, it has a population of about 375,000 and is an overseas region of France, where the local “rhum” is highly valued. 

Guadeloupe is composed of two islands in the shape of a lopsided butterfly, with a narrow mangrove channel separating them. The naming of the two parts, Basse-Terre and Grande-Terre, may at first seem nonsensical, as Basse-Terre, which can be translated to “low land,” is the larger, more mountainous of the two, and Grande-Terre, which can be translated to “large land,” is the smaller, lower one. Rather than elevation, the naming actually refers to the relative position of each part, with Basse-Terre being the more southerly (“low”) half and Grande-Terre the northern (“high”) half. 

Grande-Terre is a much older island. It once looked more like Basse-Terre, but over millions of years, its mountains have eroded. Basse-Terre is a younger volcanic island. Small boats with a draft of up to 1.8 meters (12 feet) can fit under the bridges and navigate between the two islands on the Rivière Salée.  

Most cruisers will love visiting the interior, at least in mountainous Basse-Terre, which has some exceptional views and sites. Route de la Traversée runs through the national park, smack in the middle of Basse-Terre. The Crayfish Waterfalls are well worth a visit and swim, but make your way to the upper part, which tends to be less crowded. If you are driving yourself, take the detour to Morne à Louis for the spectacular view from the top, overlooking Pigeon Island. Some buses running between Pointe à Pitre and Pointe-Noire take the Route de la Traversée.  

The most dramatic destination is the 350-foot Carbet Waterfalls in the south of Basse-Terre. If you rent a car, it is easy to find the car park, and you can reach the second falls via a beautiful 30-minute walk along a trail through the rainforest. But this is just the beginning, as many good hiking trails have been built in this area. Try the one-hour hike up to the first falls. This takes you above the rainforest and into the cloud forest. These first falls, which are as tall as the second falls, are red from the volcano. Whichever falls you hike to, remember to take your bathing things: they all have good bathing pools. Hiking is sometimes restricted due to landslides. Other attractions in this area include several crater lakes, such as Étang As de Pique, shaped like an ace of spades.

By contrast, Grand-Terre has a pleasant countryside of rolling hills, especially in the north, with plenty of sugarcane and historic windmill ruins, remnants of the island’s plantation era. Pointe-à-Pitre, the largest city, has a big marina, excellent chandleries, and you can get all kinds of boat work done here. 

Most French post offices have ATM machines. Your credit card and PIN should work at most businesses, but carry spare cash in case you have a problem. 

Many anchorages in Guadeloupe are serviced by Paradise Foods (paradisefoods.com), an excellent online provisioner. The prices they offer are the same as most supermarkets, though there is a 300 Eu minimum order. They deliver fast and efficiently to your boat or the nearest dock. It saves a lot of lugging around food and drinks and taking taxis. You download the app, fill your cart, place your order, pay, and they deliver.

In recent years, Guadeloupe has been beset by periodic water shortages. Arrive with full tanks and be aware that laundry may not be possible.