Dominica

Dominica resisted European colonization longer than any other Caribbean island, and its landscape explains why. The terrain that deterred plantation agriculture for centuries has preserved something rare: a mountainous, forested interior that remains one of the least altered in the region. The Kalinago name for Dominica is Wai’tu kubuli, meaning ‘tall is her body’, captures the landscape better than Columbus managed; according to one account, while before the Spanish court, he had to resort to crumpling up a sheet of paper to illustrate the dramatic form of the land, with its valleys, gorges, and pinnacles. This gives an idea of its topography, but tells nothing of its amazingly lush vegetation. Greenery erupts everywhere, thrusting upwards, curling, stretching, climbing, and falling, till the whole land is covered in a verdant tangle of trees, vines, shrubs, and ferns. Add to this a plethora of birds, butterflies, and brightly colored flowers, and you can begin to imagine its almost magical nature. In addition, there are such unusual natural phenomena as a boiling lake and hot waterfalls, to say nothing of the more usual sulfur springs and crater lakes. The high mountains attract clouds, creating frequent showers interspersed with sunshine, and as a result, the island is often called the land of many rivers. It could equally be known as the land of many rainbows. You are sure to see some, and around the full moon, you might see a moonbow. Dominica has some lovely beaches, but not in the profusion of the islands to the north and south, so tourism is comparatively low-key. 

Dominica has about 73,000 inhabitants who are known for their warmth and pride in their island. Expect genuine conversation about everything from hiking trails to hurricane recovery. Dominica is also home to the Kalinago Territory, one of the last remaining Indigenous territories in the Caribbean, where Kalinago communities maintain cultural traditions and welcome visitors who approach respectfully.

Nature lovers and free spirits will likely rate this majestic land their favorite. Some of the island can be seen from the boat, but the best times are found walking inland. Light rain gear is advisable, as the island experiences frequent showers that alternate with bursts of bright sunshine. We will outline some attractions under the nearest anchorages; if you only stop at one anchorage, you can reach most of them by road, but anchoring at both Portsmouth and Roseau will allow you to see more. It should be noted that many of Dominica’s hikes, including the one to Trafalgar Falls, may be over slippery and muddy terrain and should only be undertaken by those who are reasonably agile and fit. It is best to take your camera in a waterproof bag. The Dominica Forestry Department has laid many hiking trails in the island’s national parks. They have done an amazing job; some sections include miles of log walkways. The Waitukubuli trail runs the full length of Dominica, and it has 14 segments, most of which take 6-7 hours to hike. You can hike any of them with a guide or on your own. For details and a map, try avirtualdominica.com/project/waitukubuli-national-trail/.

There are charges for visiting park sites, and tickets can be bought by the visit ($8 US for a single site), or for all sites as a day pass ($20 US) or week pass ($50 US). All the money goes towards park maintenance. The Waitukubuli trail has a separate charge, $12 US for a day, or $40 US for 15 days. You can buy passes online at sitepass.forestry.gov.dm, or in person at most of the sites. The Forestry Department sells maps and has several books on Dominica’s natural history.

Just about all of Dominica is spectacular, and there are a number of lovely hikes on small roads and paths that are not part of the park. Dominica has seven potentially active volcanoes (most other Caribbean islands only have one). Eruptions are not expected anytime soon, but this history helps explain the dramatic scenery. An undersea fault to the north of Dominica occasionally shakes Dominica, the Saintes, and Marie Galante.

Like all Caribbean Islands, Dominica gets hit by hurricanes from time to time, and in September 2017, Dominica was devastated by Hurricane Maria. Dominicans’ resilience in rebuilding has been remarkable, and when I returned in 2019, the island was fully functioning, though the storm’s scars remain visible on the landscape. Visiting cruisers played a meaningful role in emergency relief in the immediate aftermath.